Haridwar is the dwar (door) to Hari (Vishnu). It was old even before many of the world’s ancient towns were born, and finds mention in the Vedas and Upan- ishads. It was then called Mayapuri, one of the seven sacred Mokshapuris. Legend has it that Haridwar was one of the sites where the nectar of immortality fell when the ocean was being churned. To mark this event, the Kumbh Mela is held here; the last Maha Kumbh in Haridwar was in 2010.
The wise Vidura, uncle and counsel of the Pandavas, studied under Maitreya Muni here. Also called Kapilasthan, Haridwar is where Kapila Muni performed penance. It was near Haridwar, in the kingdom of Kankhal ruled by Daksha Prajapati, that Parvati was born as Sati, and the ill-fated Brihaspati Yagna was held (see Legend of the Shaktipeeths on page 358).
It’s believed that Raja Shwet prayed to Lord Brahma at Har ki Pauri. Pleased by his devotion, Brahma granted him a boon. The raja wished that the site should there- after be known by the lord’s name and that he should reside there along with Vishnu and Shiva, granting the sacredness of all tirths to it. The pool of water at Har ki Pauri thus came to be called Brahma- kund. All those who bathe here are said to have been blessed by the holy trinity. This is also where the beautiful aarti of Ganga- maiya takes place.
The most sacred site, the Har ki Pauri, was built by King Vikramadltya in honour of his brother, the saintly poet Bhartruhari, who is said to have meditated here. The Bhartmhari Smriti reveals that Raja Vikram- aditya first built the steps and then the Brahmakund next to the site.
The Archaeological Museum of the Gurukul Kangri Vishwa Vidyalaya has a collection of artefacts from sites around Haridwar, dating back to 3500 BCE, including remains of temples, coins and pottery. It is also known that Emperor Akbar insisted on drinking Ganga jal drawn only from Haridwar! As such, even mythologically, there is no single presid- ing deity or ancient ‘core’ temple in Haridwar. The Ganga herself is both the deity and the temple.
ORIENTATION
Haridwar has no public transport system worth its name. Har ki Pauri, the main and most crowded bathing ghat in town, is a brisk walk of about 11/2 km from the Haridwar Railway Station. The Bus Stand is diagonally opposite the railway station. Frequent buses leave for Rishikesh from here.
Taxis can be hired from the Haridwar Taxi Drivers and Owners Association Stand, right outside the railway station. The drivers are knowledgeable. Autos can be hired for the day (Rs 200-350, depending on what is to be covered). Cycle rickshaws are the preferred mode of trans- port. ‘Vikrams’ or tempos can also be hired at Rs 20 per head, or Rs 80-150 for the whole six-seater vehicle, depending on the distance to be covered.
Remember that both parking and driving around the, Main Bazaar and Barki Pauri can become next to impossible, especially during peak season. Walking about here is really the best.
THINGS TO SEE AND DO
A day or two should suffice to see the sites in Haridwar but the Ganga easily lures the visitor to stay longer.
Har ki Pauri: This ghat is believed to be the exact spot where the holy Ganga enters the p: am. This is also the site where divine necta fell from the celestial kumbh (see page 231). The Kumbh Mela is held here. The River Ganga enters the sacred Brahmakund from one side and exits from the other. Nowhere is the water in the kund more than waist-high. But the Ganga flows very swiftly and only the expert must try swimming unassisted. Chains and rails have been provided to enable pilgrims to hold on to, and have a safe man here. The Ganga Mandir and Haricharan Mandir are here. Har ki Pauri gets its name from the feet (pauri) of Lord Vishnu (Hari). The footprints of the lord, the Vishnucharanpaduka, are believed to be imprinted on the wall beneath the swiftly swirling waters of the Ganga at this ghat. A priest will be able to guide you to reach and touch it.
Attending the evening aarti at the Har ki Pauri is a must for any pilgrim, several times over if possible. Author Khushwant Singh is known to have declared that he had not come across a more moving and beautiful ceremony than this. As the crowds begin to gather and the loud-
FAST FACTS
When to go winter draws lesser crowds. Weekends and holidays are extremely busy. Be wary of people/walking around with receipt books trying to take donations. While the aarti itself is held on the promenade above Brahmakund, running southwards from Har ki Pauri, a better view can be had from the other Side of the stream. Timings vary as per season, but the aarti is always held soon after sunset, and it’s sensible to reach about 30 mins before sunset to secure a place in one of the best viewing spots.
On a clear day, the pilgrim should not forget to look directly northwards from Har ki Pauri where, from a distance of over 150 km, snowy Himalayan peaks can be seen. This sight can be enjoyed in relative peace if the visitor walks northwards along the river, away from the crowds.
-Location 11/2 km from railway station
-Related info Pilgrims on the Char Dham Yatra are traditionally required to have a bath at the Har ki Pauri at the beginning of their journey. The first day of Visakha (Apr-May) is considered
very auspicious for a Ganga snan and thousands throng to the Har ki Pauri then. Other important
days are Purnimas, especially ‘Karthik Pumima in December, Amavasyas, the solar and lunar eclipses, Ekadashis and Ganga Dussehra (the day on which the Ganga is said to have been given to Bhagirath as Bhagirathi by Lord Shiva). Rituals , are performed for ancestors and the ashes of the dead cast into the Ganga at the southern end of the ghat. Since the Ganga’s flow has been cur- tailed by the controversial Tehri Dam Project, peak water flow periods coincide with farm irri- gation periods in areas downstream of Haridwar. When the flow of the river to the Ganga Canal is restrained, as it sometimes happens, the Brahmakund becomes a muddy decoction of water and litter. The Ganga aarti is still held but if you happen to be in Haridwar at such a time, the disappointment will be great. Non-Hindus are not allowed on the Har ki Pauri Ghat but can bathe in the river and View the aarti from the platform-like island here.
Hilltop temples
The peaks of the two tallest hills around either side of Haridwar, Neel Parvat and Bhilkeshwar, are homes to temples of the presiding deities of the forests around here. On the left bank of the Ganga is the temple to Chandi Devi and to the right is the tem— ple to Mansa Devi. Visitors can access the temples via a ropeway (called ’Udan Khatola’). Four people can travel in each car and the View during the trip is stunning.
Chandi Devi Temple
The temple is atop the Neel Parvat. The 3- km climb to the top is a little tough for the unfit (can take up to an hour or even more).
The walking route goes past the Kamraj-ki- Kali Temple. There are two pagdandis (unpaved trails). One of these goes past the Gaurishankar Mahadev Temple, but neither is recommended for it’s not a safe climb.
-Location 3 km south of Har ki Pauri Timings 5 am-8 pm
-Related info Udan Khatola timings: winter 9 am—5.3O pm; summer 8.30 am-7.30 pm; timings change on Apr 1 and Nov 1. Udan Khatola tick- ets: Rs 70 round-trip for Chandi Devi Temple only; Rs 144 (inclusive of bus ticket) for round- trips to Mansa Devi and Chandi Devi. There are ticket counters at the temples. Transportation by mini bus is arranged between the temples by the authorities as part of the ropeway package at an extra cost of Rs 26 per head. Mini buses ply between the two temples every 10-15 mins
Mansa Devi Temple
The approach to the temple, located atop a windy hill, is lined with pretty landscaped gardens. This is a crowded shrine accessed through an alley full of noisy shops and a longish queue that winds its way through railings installed in a hall. The atmosphere is quite picnic-like or chaotic, depending on the crowds that throng here. The Mansa Devi Temple also has several smaller altars devoted to various avatars of the Mata. OLocation 1 km north of Har ki Pauri Timings 5 am-8 pm Related info Udan Khatola timings: summer 7 am-8 pm, winter 8 am-6 pm; timings change on Apr 1 and Nov 1. Udan Khatola tick- ets: Rs 48 round-trip, Rs 31 one-way
Saptarishi Kund
Pilgrims must spend some time at this beautiful site, also known as Saptasarovar, believed to have been sanctified by the seven rishis whose devotion compelled Gangamaiya to divide herself into seven channels. She blessed each of the rishis, before reuniting again into the single beautiful channel called Neel Dhara as she entered Haridwar. One part of this then splits and goes through Har ki Pauri, which is simply called the Ganga Canal. oLocation 5 km north of Har ki Pauri
Sacred sites
A bath at Gaooghat, south of Brahmakund/ Har ki Pauri, is said to release one from the sin of cow slaughter. Kushavarta Ghat, to the south of Gaooghat, is where Rishi Dattatreyji is said to have stood on one leg for 10,000 years. It’s believed that one day, while he was in deep tapasya, his kamandal (vessel) and kush (grass used in rituals), which were lying on the ghat, were swept away by the Ganga’s current. However, because of his tapasya, they only rotated in a whirlpool and were not carried away. This ghat is also used for the ancestral rite of pinda daan. The Shravanathji’s Temple is further south of Kushavarta Ghat, where you will find a statue of Shiva as Panch- mukhi Mahadev. Vishnu Ghat, south of Shravanathji’s Temple, is where Bhagwan Vishnu is believed to have meditated. Maya Devi Temple, south of Vishnu Ghat, is where one can see images of Ashtbhuji (eight-armed) Shiva, and that of Durga with three heads.
WHILE IN HARIDWAR
Make time to see the prettier and undisturbed parts of the river, best visited at places away from the Main Bazaar. Spend a while at the secluded backwaters off the Canal Colony Road, where, as far as the eye can see, spreading downstream on either side of the Neel Dhara, lie the forests of Rajaii and Chilla. To take a calm and cleansing dip in the Ganga, take the road that connects Najibabad and Pauri Garhwal. Turn left as soon as you cross the bridge across the Ganga and head on the Forest
Department road to Chilla National Park. The journey takes about 30 mins one way by an autorickshaw from the railway station (Rs 100-150 for the round-trip). Stop at the small Kali Temple just before the toll gate (crossing which would cost Rs 40), park there and walk down to the river. The waters take a very sharp left turn at this point, forming a shining clean beach. You’ll find lots of white, rounded stones polished by the river’s waters here, which are a hall- mark of Haridwar. Safe, secluded and clean, this is probably the best bathing spot in Haridwar. It is our personal favourite. Elephant and jeep safaris and excellent birdwatching Opportunities are on offer at Rajaji National Park (open 5.30 am-5 pm in summers, 6 am-4.30 pm in winters; entry fee Indians Rs 40, foreigners Rs 350; vehicle fee Rs 100), 9 km north-east of Haridwar. For more details, contact the Park Director at 0135-2621669. The local tourist office (586 Fast Facts on page 170) and many private tour companies organise river rafting in the Ganga.
SHOPPING
There are a number of shops selling all sorts of essentials for pilgrims in the streets between the railway station and Har ki Pauri. Known generally as the Main Bazaar, cycle rickshaws can be used to access most of these lanes, but some have evolved into narrow walkways that in some places are not wide enough for even two people. Popular purchases are artificial jewellery for idols, brass and copper puja utensils, glass bangles, wooden walking sticks and stone- ware. There are lots of mithai shops and pedas (milk sweets) are good takeaways, as are bottles of churan (digestives) and aam papad (sweetened dry mango preserve). Pilgrims usually buy containers for carrying Ganga jal back home.
WHERE TO STAY
Haridwar has innumerable ashrams, most of them in the Bhoopatwalla area.There are
a few ashrams in Kankhal, which, however, is a little out of the way for those who wish to be near Har ki Pauri. Jayram Ashram (Tel: 01334-260251, 261735; donations wel- come) in Bhimgoda is one of the most pOp- ular ashrams in Haridwar. It has about 250 extremely neat and well-kept rooms, with old but clean linen. The Ganga flows by the ashram premises. Pawan Dham (Tel: 260400/ 500; Tariff: Rs 200/ Rs 50 per bed), located about 2 “km away from Har ki Pauri, has around 150 four-bedded rooms. The attraction at Pawan Dham is the Sheeshe ka Mandir, where the frescoes and idols are almost entirely done in glass.
Bhooma Niketan (Tel: 260173; Mem- bership: Rs 365 per annum/ Rs 5,100 for life) gives priority to trustees of the organisation, followed by members. Non- members are entertained, but only if armed with a reference letter from a trustee or member. Shanti Kunj (Tel: 261328, 260602; no charges, donations optional) can accommodate up to 5,000 people at a time and has single and double-bedded
rooms and also two-room flats with kitchenettes. Satvik meals are prepared in the bhojanalaya, where self-service is encouraged. Although the rooms are not very neat, the atmosphere in the rest of the ashram is conducive to a pleasant, spiritually oriented stay. They also conduct nine-day and one-month sadhana or guidance camps.
Off-season and weekday rates are nego- tiable in most hotels, especially if booked in advance. The state-run Rahi Motel (Tel: 226430, 228686; Tariff: Rs SOC-1,050) is where the Tourist Office is located, and it’s walking distance from the railway station and bus terminus. It has air-cooled and air- conditioned suites, which recently under- went a rather disappointing refurbishing.
The best accommodation as far as ambience is concerned, without doubt, is the magnificently located UP Tourism Guest House, also known as Hotel Alaknanda (Tel: 226379; Tariff: Rs 900-2,800, dorm bed Rs 100), on the left bank of the Ganga Canal, about 3-4 km downstream from Har ki Pauri. It has a superb prome- nade along the river and a View of both the Neel Dhara and the Ganga Canal. Unfortunately, it’s currently the subject of litigation between state governments, but the staff is friendly and you have no rea- son. to worry.
There are three other ‘high-end’ hotels in Haridwar, with fairly decent facilities, and these are all located in a cluster on the BHEL Road, near Ranipur Modh/ Jwalapur Road Crossing, slightly away from the cen- tre of town. They are: Hotel Vinayak (Tel: 222433, 220769; Tariff: Rs 600-2,400), Hotel Le Grande (Tel: 229250-53; Tariff: Rs 1,395-2,595) and Hotel Classic Residency (Tel: 228005-7; Tariff: Rs 2,800-4,000).
Suvidha Deluxe Hotel (Tel: 227023, 227423; Tariff: Rs 950-1,550) in Shravan Nath Nagar has very open, airy and neat rooms with small but clean loos. Though a little difficult to find, it is centrally located and close to the railway station and bus terminal. Hotel (Tel: 226105; Tariff: Rs 550-950) is in the same price range, but a bit further away, and the authors’ favourite, for the simple reason that the front desk staff is friendly, honest and helpful. The hotel boasts of clean rooms, a coffee shop and an ice-cream parlour. Be wary of Hotel Manasarovar International (Tel: 226501, 266014; Tariff: Rs 400-1,400/ Rs 100 per bed) on Upper Road—the fancy pricing notwithstanding, the rooms are stuffy, the curtains falling off the pelmets and the linen is stained and has quite a few holes!
Other options include the GMVN Tourist Rest House (Tel: 01382—266697/ 78; Tariff: Rs 150-880), close to the Rajaji NP’s Chilla entrance, and the Wild Brook Retreat (Mobile: 09314880887; Tariff: Rs 3,880), far from the park itself, but set in a site overlooking a river.
For more hotels and details, see Haridwar Accommodation Listings on pages 1000-1001
WHERE TO EAT
Eating simple but delicious fare cooked in front of the many Mathurawale (sweet shop-cum-simple meal) type of eating houses is recommended. A basic meal would cost Rs 10-25. Don’t miss the rabris, rasmalai, pedas and barfls, besides kachoris and chaat, at the famous Briiwasi Mithai- walla at the Heera Complex in Barra Bazaar. Of the decent eating places near here, two more stand out. Singh Dughda Bhandar is a clean place, offering pizzas and sandwiches, in addition to packaged food. For those who are particularly fussy, they also offer a trustworthy breakfast of branded oatmeal and porridge, served with hot milk. Kwality Mysore, also on the same road, offers tolerable South Indian vegetable snacks and meals. A meal for two costs around Rs 100 at these eateries, both of which are on the Upper Road.
Gujarati Bhojanalaya, on the road opposite Shiv Murti, not far from the rail- way station, offers excellent Gujarati thalis (Rs 35), complete with piping hot baan rotis, sweet kadhi and ghee-laced khichdi. Chotiwala, opposite the tourist office on Station Road, is popular. Bestee is a popu- lar café in the Shiv Murti area; they have delicious North Indian snacks and fresh fruit milk shakes.
GETTING THERE
Air Nearest airport: Jolly Grant, Dehra Dun (45 km/ 1 hr). Connected to New Delhi. Taxi Rs 600-800
Rail Haridwar Railway Station has good connections to most parts of the country. The best option from New Delhi would be the Dehra Dun Shatabdi Express
Road lf travelling from Delhi on NH58, the journey takes almost 5 hrs. In win- ter, when there’s dense fog, it can take even 7 hrs. Note that the hill state of Uttaranchal is rightly strict about pos- session of documents, driving discipline and vehicle condition. Haridwar is well- connected by bus to Delhi, Dehra Dun, Gwalior, Shimla, Jammu, Nainital, ‘ Chandigarh and Lucknow. Deluxe buses ply between Delhi and Haridwar, departing from City Heart Travels near lSBT Kashmere Gate, Delhi. A return taxi from Dehra Dun costs about Rs 1,200
Important Sites to visit
Har ki Pauri, Ganga Mandir, SaptarishiKund,ChandiDevi Mansa Devi Mandir Location in the south-west corner of the state, on the western bank of the River Ganga, after she enters the plains from the Himalaya viaithe Shivalik Range
Distances 202 km NE of Delhi, 54 km S of Dehra Dun
Route from Dehradun NH72 to Raiwala via Doiwala; NH58 to Haridwar Route from Delhi NH24 to Ghaziabad; NH58 to Haridwar via Meerut, Muzaffarnagar and Roorkee.
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