At Rishikesh, the Ganga enchants as she flows by, quietly but purposefully. The verdant foothills of the Himalaya welcome her as she goes forth on her journey towards the sea, urging her to pause, and why, she almost does. The river, whose very name is a prayer, makes Rishikesh far more tranquil than its popularity would otherwise have let it be. As we walked on the undulating road hugging the quieter opposite bank, to the left of the Ram Jhoola, stopping every now and then to descend to the waterfront, we never tired of the Ganga’s changing constancy. The powdery, silvery sands shifted gently beneath the clear waters, turning turbid when disturbed but settling back with surfing swiftness. The Ganga does that for her devotees. The troubles of everyday existence seem to be carried away by her waters. Like the unruffled sand beneath her waters in Rishikesh, she calms, purifies and uplifts our minds, indeed, our souls.
A three-fold importance is attached to this town. First, since Satyug, Rishikesh has been the abode of sages. Second, Rishikesh is considered the gateway to the Char Dham and Panch Kedar yatras. Third, during the past few decades, Rishikesh has become the yoga capital of the world. The town stands on both banks of the Ganga. There is free access to the unpolluted waters and the water temperature is just perfect, cool in summer and bearany cold in winter. The undercurrents of spirituality are as steady here as the flow of the mighty Ganga.
LEGENDS AND MYTHOLOGY
Sage Raibhya did penance here and attained Lord Vishnu, who is believed to be the conqueror of senses. The root of the name Rishikesh is in the Sanskrit word hrishik, meaning senses, and ish, meaning master or lord. Hence, by conquering his senses, Rishi Raibhya gave the place its name Hrishikesh, now pronounced Rishikesh.
ORIENTATION
The best way to go around Rishikesh is on foot as the town is hilly and consists of nar- row lanes. To cross the river take a motor ferry from the iron suspension bridge known as Ram Jhoola (ferry timings 8 am- 5.30 pm; fare Rs 5 one way; Rs 8 to and fro), which is near Swargashram, or walk across either Ram Jhoola or Lakshman Jhoola, 2 km upstream. Practised riders take two- wheelers over them, disturbing what is otherwise a tranquil walk.
Noisy tempos (called Vikrams or phatpatis) are affordable contraptions with amiable owners who have ‘arrangements’, so you might find yourself disembarking and getting on again en route, depending on the driver’s destination and the number of passengers left. Autos and Vikrams are available on the main road, the road to Badrinath (Rs 3-5 for a shared ride, Rs 15 for a full auto for short hauls). Auto drivers will take you tem- ple sightseeing, covering the major temples in 3-4 hrs (Rs 60-70). Fix the price before- hand. Vikrams go as far as Haridwar (25 km). Take taxis for longer distances.
THINGS TO SEE AND DO
Rishikesh is not a pilgrimage destination devoted to any particular place of worship or deity. Rather, it is a site of various spiritual practices. If you are on a serious soul- searching mission, then a lifetime may not suffice to fully experience Rishikesh. Beautiful, introspective and deeply spiritual, the ancient Ganga mirrors Rishikesh in many ways.
Ganga Aarti
If you are staying in an ashram, then it probably has its own timings for puja in the morning and aarti in the evenings. The aarti may not be as grand as the one in Haridwar, but it still transports the devotee to a different world altogether. The oil lamps floating on the Ganga in the dark are a sight to behold. As the sun goes down, the Parmarth Niketan Ashram aarti attracts many spectators and participants. oLocation Parmarth Niketan Ashram is in Swargashram, near the Ram Jhoola, on the right bank of Ganga, facing upriver Timings Summer 6-7 pm, winter 5.30-6.30 pm
Triveni Ghat
It is believed that the confluence of Ganga, Yamuna and Saraswati took place here. This ghat of sand and pebbles is large and clean, and has changing rooms for women. You'll find beggars here and it’s best to give them food rather than money. Nearby is the Rishikund or sages’ pond. This is said to have been a havan kund where holy men performed fire rituals in ancient times when
the Ganga did not flow nearby. On the request of the sages for a place to bathe in,
the waters of the Yamuna River appeared in the kund and have stayed there ever since. There is also a Shani Mandir in Rishikund -Location South of Haridwar Road, between Ram and Lakshman Jhoolas
Bharat Mandir
Situated in the heart of Rishikesh, the Bharat Mandir is said to be the oldest tem- ple here. Sage Raibhya practised penance at this spot. It is devoted not to Bharat, the brother of Rama, but to Lord Vishnu, who is referred to as Varah in Satyug and as Bharat in Kalyug. The temple has a collec- tion of excavated artefacts dating from the 2nd to 15th century CE. It is believed that 108 parikramas of this temple are equiva- lent to the Badrinath Yatra -Location Near Triveni Ghat Timings 5.15-11 am.
Jhoolas
Lakshman Jhoola
The famous 450-foot long suspension bridge, was built in 1939. It is said that Lord Ram’s brother Laksh- man crossed the Ganga on the jute rope from here. The Lakshman and Raghunath temples are also here. This part of town is better known for its busy bazaars and cafés.
Ram Jhoola
Just 2 km ahead downstream, at Muni-ki-Reti, is another suspension bridge, built later. This is Ram Jhoola, sur- rounded by a cluster of ashrams on both sides. It connects Shivanand Ashram on the east bank and Swargashram on the west, and is also called Shivanand Jhoola. A thrilling experience is to stand in the centre of the jhoola and look down at the river. On a good day, fish can be seen in the clear water. The newly constructed, 1,2- storey Trayambkeshvar Mandir near the Lakshman Jhoola has many idols as well as - chambers which house religious and Vedic texts. Nearby is the Swarg Niwas Mandir, another 12-storey temple with various idols of Hindu gods and goddesses on its many floors. -Temple timings Trayambkeshvar 8 am-8 pm, Swarg Niwas 8 am-7 pm
WHILE IN RISHIKESH
Many ashrams here offer short-term and longer courses in yoga. Pataniali Yoga is taught at the Yoga Niketan Ashram. In case you plan to be there for 15 days or longer, you can stay in the main building, above the main Badrinath Road at Muni-ki-Reti. For shorter stays, one can rent a' room in the guest house (Tariff: Non-AC Rs 500-600, AC Rs 800) below on a daily basis. Both the ashram as well as the guest house have basic rooms with double beds (sheets and blan- kets provided) and attached bathrooms.
The Shivanand Ashram, founded by Swami Shivananda, offers daily classes in Hatha Yoga. Centrally located in Shiv- anand Nagar, right by the Ganga, the ashram provides easy access to the boat jetty for ferry rides to the opposite bank; auto and Vikram stands are close by too. Its main premises are situated on a hilly outcrop; a steep climb takes visitors to bet- ter though basic rooms above. For those who do not wish to undertake the climb, basic accommodation minus attached bathrooms is available by the road itself. Visitors are advised to take their own linen; facilities are neat. Simple and hot food‘ is served thrice a day. Religious dis- courses and bhajans are 'conducted every evening in their prayer hall. They have an excellent dispensary for Ayurvedic medi- cines, and a good shop for books they pub- lish themselves.
The Omkarananda Patanjali Yoga Kendra on the main Badrinath Road, specialises in Iyengar Yoga. Classes are held from 6- 7.30 pm every day and also in the morn- ings from 8-9.30 am thrice a week. The rooms have a tranquil View of the Ganga. They are small but clean, with a double bed and attached bathrooms. Clean sheets and blankets are also available.
The Parmarth Niketan Ashram, the largest in Rishikesh, has meditation and yoga classes daily and many Visitors come for the International Yoga Week (March 1-7). Sometimes, classes are held right on the riverbank, ensuring one has a truly spiritual experience. The rooms are clean, large and well-furnished, and have attached bathrooms with hot water and Western toilets. The Ganga-facing rooms are always in demand.
Living up to its name, the world- famous, super-luxury Ananda Spa in the Himalayas, located in the erstwhile palace of the Maharaja of Tehri-Garhwal in Naren- dranagar (16 km from Rishikesh), provides wellness holidays in the mystical embrace of the Garhwal Himalaya.
Many tour and travel agents arrange rafting and wildlife tours as well. Adventurous visitors will be delighted to know that Rishikesh offers white water rafting (Rs 350-2,000 depending upon distance, including the drive up to the starting point) from September-June, when the river is neither too wild nor too placid. Always go with experienced and recom- mended operators. A short trip to Chilla or the Rajaji National Park is an enriching experience. The park’s entry point (Chilla Gate, 19 km) can be approached via the forest check-post located about 6 km from the town on the Rishikesh-l’ashulok route. Jeeps from Rishikesh charge Rs 600.
GETTING THERE
Air Nearest airport: Jolly Grant Airport (14 km/ 40 mins), connected only with Delhi. Taxis from Rishikesh charge‘Rs 350 for a round-trip. As these are hard to come by at the airport, it’s best to book in advance with your hotel or taxi stand in Rishikesh
Rail Nearest railhead: Haridwar (25 km/ 1 hr), which has good connections to Delhi via the Shatabdi. As the Haridwar— Rishikesh passenger train is slow, get off at Haridwar. Taxi Rs 200-250
Road Deluxe private and state buses leave from Delhi’s Kashmere Gate ISBT at 7.30 am and 2.30 pm. Uttaranchal State Roadways buses leave every half hour (7 hrs, Rs 127). Driving is a good option from Delhi, Dehra Dun or nearby cities.
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